전세림 Serim Jeon , 한민희 Minheehan , 정대균 Daekyunchung , 황재성 Jaesunghwang

DOI:

Abstract

At present, there are few research papers on skin penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients. What is worse is that in vivo studies are hard to find. In this study, we measured skin epidermal penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients using in vivo Raman spectroscopy and compared with the results obtained from experiments using in vitro franz cell. Results showed that ascorbyl-2-glucoside, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and kojic acid were good for penetration ratio in measurement in vitro and retinol, vitamin C, and arbutin were good in measurement in vivo. Among them, retinol was best in skin penetration in vivo experiment using Raman spectroscopy and ascorbyl-2-glucoside was best in skin penetration in vitro experiment using Franz cell system. It is estimated that the differences were originated from the experimental procedures of two different methods; in vivo Raman experiment can be sensitive to the effect of epidermis and dermis as characteristics of matter by estimating the stratum corneum and in vitro measurement is evaluation of material to penetrate skin of hairless mouse. However, most penetration barrier is the stratum corneum, thus it is important to examine movement of material in the stratum corneum. We expect that these results provided useful information for many cosmetic related research.

Key Words

Skin penetration, in vivo, raman, franz cell, functional cosmetic ingredients

김해수 Hae Soo Kim , 임나리 Na Ri Im , 박준호 Jun Ho Park , 김명옥 Myeong-ok Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this work, the antioxidative effects and active component analysis of Gnaphalium affine D. DON. (G. affine) extracts were investigated. All experiments were performed with 70% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of the G. affine extract. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of ethyl acetate fraction (6.15 μg/mL) of the G. affine was higher than that of (+)-α-tocopherol (8.89 μg/mL), which is known as a reference control. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of the 70% ethanol extract (1.60 μg/mL), ethyl acetate fraction (0.075 μg/mL) and aglycone fraction (2.28 μg/mL) of extract of G. affine on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay were much higher than that of L-ascorbic acid (6.88 μg/mL). The cellular protective effects of 70% ethanol extract (τ₅₀ = 52.0 min) and aglycone fraction of the extract (τ₅₀ = 60.6 min) on the ¹O₂-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes were exhibited the higher protective effect than (+)-α-tocopherol (τ₅₀ = 38.0 min), known as a lipophilic antioxidant. TLC and HPLC were used to analyse active components in the aglycone fraction of the extract. Results showed that luteolin and apigenin were main components. These results suggest that the G. affine extract can be applied to an effective antioxidant in scavenging ROS including radicals.

Key Words

Gnaphalium affine D. DON., antioxidative activity, flavonoid, photoaging

홍인기 In Kee Hong , 김은지 Eun Ji Kim , 석지현 Ji Hyun Seok , 김보현 Bo Hyeon Kim , 장진동 Jin Dong Jang , 조기정 Gi Jung Joe , 최신욱 Shin Wook Choi

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, Eucommia ulmoides Oliver extracts was studied in order to see any effects on the β-hexosaminidase release suppression of RBL-2H3 cells and on the expression of filaggrin, transglutaminase-1 (TGase-1) and cornified cell envelope (CE) related to the recovery of HaCaT keratinocyte skin barrier. Results showed that Eucommia ulmoides Oliver extracts reduced β-hexosaminidase release in RBL-2H3 cells and increased the effects of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver extract on the expression of filaggrin, transglutaminase-1 (TGase-1) and cornified cell envelope (CE) in HaCaT keratinocytes. Taken together, these results suggested that Eucommia ulmoides Oliver extract may be applicable for keratinocyte differentiation.

Key Words

Eucommia ulmoides Oliver, anti-allergic, skin barrier, filaggrin, cornifide envelope

박창민 Chang-min Park , 권주찬 Ju-chan Kwon , 한나경 Na-kyeong Han , 정민석 Min-seok Joung , 백기엽 Kee-yoeup Paek , 최종완 Jong-wan Choi

DOI:

Abstract

Dendrobium candidum is one of the well-known orchid on traditional and rare medicinal herb in China. We artificially cultured protocorm-like body and multiple shoots using the bioreactor culture system from Dendrobium candidum and experimented an efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. Several studies previously have reported anti-tumor, wound healing and immunological function of Dendrobium candidum but other efficacies were not well known. In the present study, we investigated the cosmetic efficacy to know applicable value of protocorm-like body and multiple shoots cultured from Dendrobium candidum as a cosmetic ingredient. The biological activities of extracts from protocorm-like body, multiple shoots, aerial part and underground part of Dendrobium candidum were investigated. Results were found that extracts of protocorm-like body are superior to other extracts (underground part, aerial part and multiple shoots extracts) on anti-oxidant effect. Also, protocorm-like body extract contained the phenolic and flavonoid compounds more than aerial part, underground part and multiple shoots extracts. In addition, we investigated skin whitening effect related to whitening of skin. In tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis assay, multiple shoots extract is superior to other extracts (aerial part, underground part and protocorm-like body), on inhibitory effect of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis respectively. These results indicate that the protocorm-like body and multiple shoots extracts cultured from Dendrobium candidum presents a new possibility of being applicable to skin improvement as a cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

Dendrobium candidum, anti-oxidation, biological activity, protocorm-like body, multiple shoots

이후섭 Hoo Seob Lee , 이상훈 Sang Hun Lee , 김은죽 Eun Juk Kim , 정철희 Cheol Hee Chung , 표형배 Hyeong Bae Pyo

DOI:

Abstract

Preservatives such as paraben, phenoxyethanol, and chlorphene are commonly used in cosmetics thanks to cheap price and good antiseptic effect. Recently, consumers’ concerns about their possible toxicity and skin irritation forced them to be replaced with straight 1,2-alkanediols. However, as the alkanediols may also irritate skin, limited amount of them should be used in cosmetics. Three 1,2-alkanediols including 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol in cosmetics were analyzed simultaneously by gas chromatogrphy with flame ionization detector. As a result of method validation, the specificity was confirmed by the calibration curves of 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol showing good linearity correlation coefficient of above 0.999 over the concentration range of 100 ~ 1,200 μg/g. The limit of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) of 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, and 1,2-octanediol were 31, 40, and 19 μg/g and 98, 108, and 57 μg/g, respectively. The precision (Repeatability) of the amount in cosmetics showed less than 2.0%. Relative Standard Deviation (% RSD) and the Accuracy (% recovery) of the amount in cosmetics showed 99.3 ~ 103.3, 99.4 ~ 106.7, 97.5 ~ 107.3% respectively. As a result, simultaneous analysis of antimicrobial three 1,2-alkanediols in cosmetics were possible. This method can be utilized in accurate quantitative analysis of 1,2-alkanediols in cosmetics.

Key Words

gas chromatography, pentanediol, octanediol, hexanediol, alkanediol

이경은 Kyung-eun Lee , 남진주 Jin-ju Nam , 김선미 Seon-mi Kim , 김한곤 Han-kon Kim , 문성준 Seong-joon Moon , 염종경 Jong-kyung Youm

DOI:

Abstract

Lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced inflammatory responses in the HaCaT keratinocyte cell line produce proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin-1α(IL-1α), tumor neurosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-6 (IL-6), and interleukin- 8 (IL-8) and also increase the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and prostaglandins E2 (PGE2). In this study, we developed new natural ingredients for cosmetics that inhibit the pro-inflammatory responses induced by LPS in HaCaT cells. The mixture of Sorbus commixta (SC), Urtica dioica (UD), Phyllostachys nigra (PN), and Rhus semialata gall (RS) extracts blocked the increase of TNF-α IL-1α IL-6, and IL-8. The increase of COX-2, iNOS, and PGE2 were also blocked by it. Finally, the mixture inhibited skin irritation induced by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), when applied on skin through IQ chamber^Ⓡ. In conclusion, these results show that the mixture of SC, UD, PN, and RS can be used as a primary ingredient to alleviate skin irritation when cosmeceutical products are developed for sensitive skin.

Key Words

anti-inflammation, skin irritation, pro-inflammatory cytokine, iNOS, PGE2

장선미 Seon Mi Jang , 김주덕 Ju Duck Kim

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, we examined the use of cosmetics among adolescents in our country and their purchasing behavior, as the use of cosmetics has increasingly been prevailing in the younger generation. The aims of this study were to investigate the state of the youth cosmetics market, to grasp the needs of youth and ultimately to suggest the right directions for the youth cosmetics market. The subjects in this study were 1,092 boys and girls from 10 selected secondary schools in Seoul. After a survey was conducted, the answer sheets from 1,074 respondents were gathered, and the collected data were analyzed by the statistical package (SPSS WIN 18.0). The vast majority of the teens participated in the survey were answered to use basic cosmetics daily, and there was a gradual increase in the frequency that they used color cosmetics. They started to use cosmetics earlier in ages than the older generations. Most of them were in trouble due to acne, and the most dominant way to get rid of their skin troubles was by using cosmetics. The most common place at which they purchased cosmetics were brand shops, and they gave priority to the function of the products when they bought cosmetics. The adolescents were still told by their schools to abstain from using cosmetics, and that was the case for social climate as well. Yet they definitely wanted to be allowed to use cosmetics.

Key Words

adolescent, basic cosmetics, color cosmetics, make-up recognition, brand shop

홍용덕 Yong Deog Hong , 남미희 Mi Hee Nam , 이창석 Chang Suk Lee , 신송석 Song Seok Shin , 박영호 Young Ho Park

DOI:

Abstract

Stem bark extracts of Fraxinus rhynchophylla Hance were found to contain two major bioactive components, esculetin and esculin. Esculetin substantially inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells, with an IC₅₀ value of 2.8 μm, and reduced melanin synthesis in Melan-A cells. Moreover, esculetin suppressed melanin biosynthesis by inhibiting mushroom tyrosinase activity, with an IC₅₀ value of 40 μM. Taken together, these results suggest that esculetin could serve as an effective skin-lightening agent that inhibits melanin production by regulating the activity of melanogenic enzymes.

Key Words

Fraxinus rhynchophylla Hance, melanogenesis, tyrosinase, esculetin, esculin

안상미 Sang Mi An , 김형건 Hyoung Gun Kim , 최은정 Eun Jung Choi , 황형훈 Hyoung Hoon Hwang , 이은석 Eunseok Lee , 백지훈 Ji Hwoon Baek , 부용출 Yong Chool Boo , 고재숙 Jae Sook Koh

DOI:

Abstract

Cosmetics are products used over long periods by the public, and their safety is very important. Contact dermatitis induced by cosmetics is the result of an inflammatory response of the skin to direct irritancy. The initial event that this inflammatory response is observed is the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines. In this study, the anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from Korean herb medicines were investigated using RAW264.7 macrophage. Among the fifty one extracts tested, the ethanol extracts from Biotae Orientalis Folium, Biotae Orientalis Folium (roasted), Cyperi Rhizoma, Nepetae Spica, Benincasae Semen, Dioscoreae Rhizoma, Dioscoreae Rhizoma (roasted), Mori Ramulus, Pini Ramulus and Alismatis Rhizoma reduced the cytotoxicity and inhibited the productions of Nitric oxide (NO) and cytokines such as interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6 and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-αn lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced RAW264.7 macrophage. Additionally, they didn’t induce the skin irritation when tested the human patch test. Overall, the result of this study suggests that the extracts of the ten Korean herb medicines are useful cosmetic agents for preventing the skin irritation.

Key Words

Korean herb medicines, anti-inflammatory activities, Skin irritation, Cosmetics

전지민 Ji Min Jeon , 유대성 Dae Sung Yoo , 천종우 Jong Woo Cheon , 권순식 Soon Sik Kwon , 전소하 So Ha Jeon , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the extracts of Inula britannica var. chinensis (I. britannica) flower were extracted at three different temperatures (room temperature, 45 ℃, and 65 ℃) and their anti-aging effects were studied. Before investigating anti-aging effects of the extracts, their cytotoxicity was tested on B16F10, Hs683, and HaCaT cells. All extracts showed no cytotoxicity at the concentration less than 0.1% (v/v). Melanin synthesis inhibitory activities in B16F10 cells and reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) in Hs683 and HaCaT cells were used to see their anti-aging effects. The room temperature extract at 0.1% showed 24.5% melanin synthesis inhibition, which was better than the 45 ℃ and 65 ℃ extracts. In addition, expression rates of the room temperature extract at 0.1% on HAS-1, HAS-2, and HAS-3 related to hyaluronan synthase genes were 123.3%, 137.8%, 133.2%, respectively. which were higher than reference material of L-ascorbic acid. Expression rates of the 45 ℃ extract at 0.1% on TNF-α, COX-2, and IL-1α, which are inflammatory related genes, was suppressed to 30.3%, 12.8%, 25.7%, respectively. It was better in anti-in flammatory effect than the room temperature and 65 ℃ extracts. As results, we showed that I. britannica var. chinensis flower extarcts decreased melanin production and expression of inflammatory related genes and increased the expression rate of hyaluronan synthase genes. Thus, it is believed that the extracts affect anti-aging effects of skin through whitening, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory processes and could be applicable to cosmetics as a functional cosmetic ingredient.

Key Words

Inula britannica flower, anti-aging, whitening, moisture, anti-inflammation